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Christchurch New Milton Bournemouth The railway Highcliffe Guestbook Home
The New Forest
A brief look at The New Forest
The original boundaries
of the New Forest were once much larger than they are today. The area now known as the 'New Forest' was
once dense woodland. During the Bronze age trees were cleared and heathland
began to form. By the Iron Age, agriculture had developed and the landscape
included fields and ditches. There is evidence that the Roman's
settled in the
forest, the remains of Rockbourne Roman Villa (near Fordingbridge) was
discovered in 1942. The villa has now been unearthed and there is a
public museum at this site where many fascinating Roman objects have been found and are
now displayed. In 1079 William the Conqueror from Normandy claimed the New Forest as his Royal Hunting Preserve. The name 'Nova' meaning new was given to the forest as it was his first enclosed hunting ground. It is said that 36 churches were demolished and the villages depopulated during his reign. William was accused of acts of cruelty and dispossession in seizing this land for his own pleasures. However the Doomsday Book clears him of this charge! During
the reign of King William 11 (Son of William the Conqueror and known as Rufus) the punishment for poaching or taking wood from the forest was
mutilation or death.
In 1745 Earl Delaware erected the Rufus stone near Canterton. This marks the said spot where King Rufus was killed. (However, there have also been other claims to the spot where Rufus died, some believing it to be on the Beaulieu estate where another stone has now been erected!) The stone was encased in iron in 1841 to protect it from weather damage. Rufus Stone is triangular in shape with inscriptions on each side:- "That the spot where an event so memorable might not hereafter be forgotten, the enclosed stone was set up by John, Lord Delaware, who had seen the tree growing in this place. This stone having been much mutilated and the inscriptions on each of its three sides defaced this more durable memorial with the original inscriptions was erected in the year 1841 by Wm Sturges Bourne Warden." "Here stood the oak tree, on which an arrow shot by Sir Walter Tyrell at a stag, glanced and struck King William the Second, surnamed Rufus on the breast, of which he instantly died, on the second day of August, ANNO 1100. " King William the Second surnamed Rufus being slain as before related was laid in a cart belonging to one Purkis and drawn from hence to Winchester and buried in the Cathedral Church of that city "
After much discontent, it was recognised that the forest folk had to be allowed to some use of the forest in order to survive. Commoner's rights were established, rights which still stand today. Since then the Commoners have grazed their animals on the forest. It's appearance today is largely a result of that grazing, without which the open spaces would disappear under growth. The preservation of oak used for shipbuilding became of more importance during the 1500's, and the Royal Navy built many galleons from New Forest timbers. The first Act authorising the enclosure of land for planting was passed in 1698. Many of the Oak trees are over a hundred years old, and many of these have become quite famous in these parts!!
The Knightwood Oak at Boulderwood, is over 450 years old and is possibly one of the oldest trees in the forest. This tree is a pollard. When it was young the crown was cut out of the tree to encourage new growth. Pollarding was made illegal in the New Forest in 1584 because it spoilt the shape of the tree for ship building!
The Queens Oak The Queens Oak was planted by Her Majesty the Queen Elizabeth on the 12th April 1979 to mark the ninth centenary of the New Forest. It stands a few hundred yards away from the Knightwood Oak.
Although the New Forest ponies are wild they are all owned by people who have common rights. These Rights are attached to occupation of the land not to people. When a property changes hands, the Common Rights pass on to the new owners. There are six Rights of Common:- PASTURE - the rights to graze cattle, ponies and donkeys. MAST - allowing pigs to feed on acorns and beech mast in late Autumn. FUELWOOD - the
cutting of wood. Commoners are entitled to a gather a certain number of 'cords' per year
for fuel.
A 'cord' of wood measures 8ft x 4ft x 4ft. Today the Forestry Commission cut the
cords to protect the forest woodlands) MARL - the Right to dig Marl - a lime rich clay that is rich in calcium and used for fertilising. PASTURE OF SHEEP - restricted to certain areas of the forest
and very few properties. The Agisters are employed by the Verderers to look after all the animals grazing. They ride the forest on horseback to inspect and to attend to sick or injured animals. All the livestock which roam in the forest are branded with the owner's mark. which enables the Agisters to contact the owners in an emergency. Today the Verderers work in conjunction with English Nature and the Forestry Commission, who administer and maintain the land on behalf of the nation.
In 1949, the New Forest Act was passed and parts of the forest were fenced. The A31, near Ringwood, was the first road to be fenced off. Stock from outside of the forest was permitted to graze on the common land and mix with stock depastured by commoners. This caused problems in the unfenced forest as these animals were not subject to the bylaws of the Verderers and there was no control over their health or breeding. The 1964 New Forest Act extended the forest boundaries and A35 was fenced. In 1971 the forest was
designated a Site of Special Scientific Interest by the Nature Conservancy
Council. By this time there were thousands of visitors each day. Parts of the
forest were closed to traffic and car parks were made in the clearings. As more
and more tourists came to the forest each year, the camp sites were established. Around the mid 1800's, with the new railway making the forest more accessible, the development of large country manor houses, lodges and estates began to grow around the villages of the forest. However, some of the old Forest laws and traditions are still carried out today! The New Forest has many picturesque villages all with character and charm of their own. As it is not possible to feature them all, here is a brief history of the most popular. Lyndhurst
Lyndhurst is the capital of the New Forest and is very picturesque with quaint thatched cottages surrounding the town. It was mentioned as 'Linhest' in the Doomsday book meaning Linden or Lime tree, with Hurst being a wooded hillock. The village has an array of gift shops and old public houses. The oldest building in Lyndhurst is Queen's House, and this was rebuilt in the 17th century on Charles I orders. Today it is used as the Verderers Court. In the church of St Micheal and all Angels lies the grave of Mrs. Reginald Hargreaves, born Alice Liddell. Alice, a daughter of the Dean of Christ Church Oxford, was the inspiration behind Lewis Carroll's book - Alice in Wonderland. The church was built in 1860 in polychromatic brick, which has an unusual, square tower rising high above the town.
Today Lyndhurst still retains it character and is very popular with the tourists. Unfortunately there is always heavy traffic in the village despite the lorry ban of a few years ago.
On a busy day!!
As Lyndhurst is approached on the A35, here is Swan Green. This is world famous with its pretty thatched cottages which have appeared on sweet tins and chocolate boxes! Cricket is still played here on a Sunday afternoon.
Lymington was once known as "Lentune" and there has been evidence of life during the Neolithic and Bronze Ages. There is a still a site at Buckland Rings nearby, which is one of the remaining earthworks in the Forest. The town's main trade was salt from its salt pans, which were developed by the Normans. In the 1800s, about 4000 tons of salt was produced from the salt marshes. The town also had a reputation for smuggling, and smugglers used the busy port to bring their cargoes ashore. It is said that a myriad of underground tunnels run under the High street, and was used for smuggling! Lymington could lay claim to over 45 Inns, many of which were involved with the smuggling trade! Later Lymington became well know for ship building and became a trading port. Boat building still goes on here today.
Lymington town was built up during the Georgian period, and this is reflected in the architecture of its older buildings.
The Parish Church of St. Thomas the Apostle has 18th century galleries and some architectural features which are over 600 years old. The churchyard has an avenue of lime trees which were planted in the seventeenth century.
Many of the older houses and buildings around Lymington have round towers on their roofs similar to the one pictured on the Church tower. Today Lymington is still recognised as the 'in place'. Expensive yachts are moored on the quay, and the quayside pubs are frequented by the 'jet set'.
Ringwood
Mentioned as Ad Rimucwude in the Doomsday book (meaning Rim of the Forest), Ringwood is the traditional market town of the Forest. The settlement grew along the banks of the Avon and in 1226, Henry III granted Richard Marshal, then Lord of the Manor of Ringwood, the right to hold a Wednesday market. The right to sell cattle and ponies at the market was granted by Edward VI in 1553. In 1792 the Manor of Ringwood was bought by the Morant family of Brockenhurst, for £23,000. Although most of this has now been privately sold off, the Morant's still hold the rights of the market.
This sculpture, 'Mare and Foal' by artist Priscilla Hann, represent Ringwood ancient horse and cattle market which is now the site of the Furlong Shopping Centre. Although no longer a corn and animal market, the tradition still carries on every Wednesday. Ringwood once boasted industries such as cloth-making, stocking and glove-knitting, tanning, milling and brewing, the latter which still goes on today. Ringwood was famous for its ale and breweries, the first being Carters Brewery opened in 1725. By the early 1800's the town of Ringwood was one of the largest in the district, and had three coaching inns on the outskirts of town, and many other Inns in the centre, including eight in the market square! The waters of the Millstream, just North of the town, were combined with locally-malted barley and hops to make beer. In the early 1800's Ringwood had four breweries, but only Charters of West Street survived until 1923, when it was dismantled. Charters was famous for its 5000 gallon vat, inside which parties used to be held!
In 1978 Ringwood Brewery was built on the former site of one the breweries and is still famous for making beer today.
A new form of transport in Ringwood!!
After the Second World War the corn mill was closed and demolished to make way for the A31, now a very busy stretch of road.
Brockenhurst
Brockenhurst, although no longer considered a village, is seeped with character and some magnificent architecture in house design. Some of the houses still standing are over 300 years old. There are quaint tea rooms and thatched cottages along the main road. Even the busy railway station has retained the feeling of a time gone by! Brockenhurst has been home to the new forest show since 1921. This popular annual event attracts over 100,000 visitors each year. On the outskirts of Brockenhurst, after crossing the ford at the end of the village, there are some of the best forest walks and scenery. From Ober Water the stream can be followed through the forest to Puttles Bridge.
Ober water
Puttles Bridge Burley
During the 17th-18th Century smuggling was rife in the village of Burley. The farmers, to help supplement their income, would help land the goods Christchurch Bay and transport them to hiding places in the Forest. The Queens Head, built in the 16th century, was notorious for smugglers and highwaymen. A hidden cellar was discovered full of pistols and coins, beneath the floor of the inn. This was one of the hiding places of the smugglers. There was also found to be underground tunnels under many of the old houses and cottages.
The Queens Head today Burley is one of the prettiest villages in the New Forest, and probably the most well known. It has many tea rooms, all with a character of their own, and horses and donkeys roam freely around the village and shops! (note from the author: The 'Cider House' tea rooms make the most delicious homemade scones and tea-cakes ever!) Witchcraft was renown in Burley, and this sets the theme here for the variety of gift shops.
Beaulieu & Bucklers Hard Beaulieu and Bucklers Hard stand side by side on the Eastern side of the forest along the River Beaulieu. Bucklers Hard is famous for ship building and ships such as the Agamemnon, Euryalus and Swiftsure, all of which fought at the Battle of Trafalgar in 1805, were built here. Famous ship builder Henry Adams lived at Bucklers Hard and his house overlooking the river is now a pub and restaurant! The introduction of iron ships ceased the boat building here at the end of the eighteenth century. The picturesque village has now been turned into a reconstruction. There are four cottages which you can walk around and learn how life used to be. There is also a museum with lots of the history of ships and the Battle of Trafalgar.
The Beaulieu river and its bank form part of a National Nature Reserve, which is home to the largest colony of Black Headed Gulls in the country. The river is also an important wetland for waterfowl and many rare species can be seen here, including Dark Bellied Brent Geese, Teal, Ringed Plover, Black-tailed Godwit, and four different types of Terns. Other birds that can be seen here include Shelduck, Curlew, Redshank and Oystercatchers.
The Abbey 1900's
In 1538 Sir Thomas Wriothesley bought the Beaulieu estate and on his death left it to his daughter, who married into the Montagu family, owners of the estate today. Being an expensive estate to run the Palace House was opened to the public in 1952.
Beaulieu Palace In honour of his father, Montagu placed a few of his Father's collection of cars in the front hall of the house. It was from this that the collection of cars in the museum today began. It is now home to over 250 motor cars dating back to the late eighteen hundreds to present day motoring.
In addition to the amazing collection of motor cars, the Palace Gardens are open to the public.
The forest attracts many visitors each year. Tourism is now the main industry in the forest. Sadly there are just a few of the visitors who do not respect the forest and spoil it for others and endanger the animals. Click here to go to my photo album Please remember to take your rubbish home with you! Christchurch New Milton Bournemouth The railway Highcliffe
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